Dinner At Skewd Kitchen, Cockfosters
PUBLISHED: 12:19 20 May 2014
First there was Italian and Greek; now we have Turkish-Mediterranean. Food and drink editor Richard Cawthorne catches up with a cuisine trend in Barnet
ABOUT THE RESTAURANT>>>.
Calling your business Skewd, even allowing for the clever pun on kebabs, is asking for trouble unless you are confident at what you do. Imagine the jokes if something goes wrong. This visit was enjoyable however, with only a few marks off for brash decor and intrusive music.
ATMOSPHERE & DECOR>>>.
If you like American diner chic, Skewd has instant appeal. Lots of light and bright colours. It’s probably not a bad idea when you’re in the middle of a suburban shopping precinct to embrace a large dining area and busy open kitchen. It can be noisy, though.
Our waitress, Ayse, was a model of friendly efficiency and quick to suggest menu items we might like. A basket of Skewd’s signature puff bread appeared instantly while a large jug of tap water featured fresh mint leaves, strawberries and redcurrants – all on the house.
A huge choice awaited, from cold and hot starters, charcoal grills, steaks and fish to stone-oven pides, salads, side dishes and desserts. Many were familiar, some not, all backed up by a distinguished specials menu.
From the specials, coconut-coated king prawns (£6.90) with chilli, lime, coriander and aioli proved as good as they sounded, while my grilled asparagus (£6.90) with oak-cured beef, poached hen’s egg and Hollandaise sauce was exactly right – even the egg was the correct consistency.
Another special, ocean kebab (£23.90) was expensive but a treat, featuring monkfish, Alaskan wild salmon, king prawns and a hearty piece of octopus with mixed-leaf salad and sautéed Mediterranean vegetables. From the main menu, a traditional Turkish veli nazik (£16.50) - charcoal-grilled eggplant with garlic and yogurt dressing topped with chopped chicken shish and seasoned kapya peppers – was not quite as good but exotic enough to deserve an honourable mention.
DESSERT>>>. Chocolate and beetroot brownie and walnut pudding clamoured for attention but lost out to a classic – and classy - passion fruit crème brulee (£5.90).
Unusual food in a fun setting plus attentive service lifted Skewd out of the ordinary and provided an entertaining and rewarding evening.
The cost of this meal for two was £71.10, including two glasses of wine. Service was extra.
This is an independent review featuring a restaurant selected and experienced by our food and drink editor. The restaurant was not told it was being reviewed.
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12 Cockfosters Parade, Barnet EN4 0BX.
020 8449 7771.