CHRISTMAS OFFER Subscribe to Hertfordshire Life today CLICK HERE

Review: The WHite Horse, Hertingfordbury

PUBLISHED: 18:19 05 April 2012 | UPDATED: 21:15 20 February 2013

Review: The WHite Horse, Hertingfordbury

Review: The WHite Horse, Hertingfordbury

Imaginative touches and good value make the White Horse a good bet, says food and drink editor Richard Cawthorne

Imaginative touches and good value make the White Horse a good bet, says food and drink editor Richard Cawthorne

About the restaurant

Tucked just off the main road outside Hertford and dating from the 15th century, The White Horse offers a classic country-pub design with the added benefits of a restaurant, hotel rooms and large garden added over the years and a recent major refurbishment.

Atmosphere and decor

Oak beams 400 years old are a big feature of The White Horses cosy interior; the Garden Room restaurant, while large, is a particularly welcoming area with thick carpeting and, for once, space at the table to breathe.


For this visit I was part of a foursome, enough to justify the attentions of the deputy general manager as well as an efficient and friendly waitress. Our menu discussion also brought out newly-arrived chef Kevin Edwards to discuss the food, another good touch.

The menu

Snails among the starters, a separate chefs specials list and the rarely-seen epoisses on the cheese board were encouraging signs of imagination at work in the kitchen. Twelve starters and 12 mains, including the specials and featuring three substantial vegetarian options, covered most bases and there was some clever work among the accompaniments.

To start

Burgundy snails with garlic butter and bread (6.95) were delicate of flavour while still expertly seasoned. The bread was advertised as crusty and wasnt, but thats a minor quibble. Scallops wrapped in bacon with pea puree and honey glaze (6.95) were properly chunky and hailed across the table as among the best yet. Our companions also praised their tiger king prawns with coconut and sweet chilli sauce and the breaded whitebait with tartare sauce and lemon (both 5.95).

Main courses

The chefs special main course, seabass with lemon and lime cream sauce, fine ratatouille and new potatoes (13.95) was an instant hit with my companion, though the potatoes were considered a bit surplus. I went for Portuguese (ie peri-peri) style chicken with chargrilled polenta cake and wild rocket and parmesan salad (12.95). The meat was tasty enough but the bland polenta didnt really work.


Poached pear in red wine (4.50), with one of Carole Maynards exotic ice creams, was an ideal finisher. No complaints were heard.

The experience

A satisfying and good-value meal all round save for a couple of small niggles which are likely to be dealt with in chef Edwards new menu being introduced in mid-April. We felt comfortable and well looked after in pleasant surroundings.

My share of the bill was 61.25 for two, including a bottle of crisp Pinot Grigio and one coffee. Service was extra.


The White Horse Hotel

Hertingfordbury Road

Hertingfordbury SG14 2LB

01992 586791

This is an independent review featuring a restaurant selected and experienced by our food and drink editor. The restaurant was not told it was being reviewed.


More from Food & Drink

Wednesday, November 7, 2018

Indulge in the very best of pub classics every Wednesday night at The Black Horse.

Read more
Friday, November 2, 2018

It’s that time of year again and we have our special T-BONE steak offer!

Read more
Wednesday, October 31, 2018

A trailblazer nearly 30 years ago, this Hertford Thai restaurant is on the cusp of reinvention

Read more
November 2018
Tuesday, October 30, 2018

If you don’t fancy slaving over a hot fire this year, head to one of these restaurants for a festive feast on Christmas Day

Read more
Tuesday, October 23, 2018

A warming bonfire night snack, easy and delicious and full of autumn flavour

Read more
October 2018
Wednesday, October 17, 2018

Make the most out of autumn with these eight walking routes that take in a variety of Hertfordshire’s terrains and - most importantly – have a cosy pub along the way

Read more
Tuesday, October 16, 2018

Pulled and rolled Jacob’s ladder with potato, carrot and leek cake, roasted baby leeks and veal jus

Read more
October 2018
Thursday, October 11, 2018

Auberge du Lac opened its doors in 1998 and we are inviting you to celebrate the restaurants fabulous history on Wednesday 28th November.

Read more
Monday, October 8, 2018

Buntingford gains a new 28-cover fine-dining restaurant with the opening of the Falcon

Read more
October 2018
Wednesday, October 3, 2018

Christmas at the Tilbury from 23rd November to 29th December.

Read more

Newsletter Sign Up

Sign up to the following newsletters:

Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter

Our Privacy Policy

Topics of Interest

Food and Drink Directory

Local Business Directory

Search For a Car In Your Area

Property Search