Risotto of Devon crab

Above: Risotto of Devon crab

THE St Albans restaurant scene has acquired yet another new level with the arrival of Chez Mumtaj, where managing director and executive chef Chad Rahman is pursuing his dream of introducing to the city what he calls modern Asian fine dining with French overtones. Winner of a number of high profile chef of the year awards for his work at his original St Albans restaurant, Mumtaj, a city fixture for 25 years, Chad is branching out. The setting for Chez Mumtaj is lavish, a large double-fronted former furniture store which has been transformed into a luxurious 100-cover restaurant with additional facilities for private dining. Opened at Easter, it is already turning people away on Saturday nights. The food, seeming familiar at first glance, is determinedly different, as Chad’s recipe demonstrates.

Risotto of Devon crab with tandoored king prawns, basil and truffle foam and smoked aubergine caviar (serves 6)

Risotto base:
1 litre shellfish stock
50ml olive oil
2 shallots and 2 baby leeks, finely chopped
1 clove garlic
1 cup Arborio rice
4tbsp white wine
2 sprigs fresh thyme

Bring the shellfish stock to a simmer in a saucepan. Heat olive oil in deep heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add shallots, chopped garlic and baby leeks, sweat for 3 mins without letting them brown, add rice and sweat for a further 2 mins. Pour in white wine and simmer until it has reduced to a glaze. Add the hot shellfish stock in batches of 50ml-75ml at a time, bringing to boil each time and allowing to evaporate while stirring continuously. Each stage should take about 3mins. Repeat until rice is nearly cooked but not chalky – about 15mins from first addition of stock. Retain excess stock. Remove risotto from pan, ensuring rice is reasonably dry, spread over a tray and set aside to cool.

Tandoored king prawns:
50ml mustard oil
12 freshwater king prawns (size 6-8)
1tsp Kashmiri mild chilli powder
1tbsp each of garlic paste and Greek yoghurt
2tbsp fresh lemon juice
1tsp each of dry roasted fenugreek powder and turmeric powder
½tsp garam marsala

De-shell prawns, leaving the tail part of the shell on. Add all ingredients to prawns and mix well; place aside for 2 hours, then grill prawns in tandoor or oven for 5 mins until tender and juicy.

Basil and truffle foam:
250ml shelllfish stock
1 cup full fat milk
50g stick butter
1tbsp each of truffle oil and basil oil
salt and pepper

Place remainder of shellfish stock in saucepan, bring to boil and simmer until thick and syrupy and about 50ml in volume. When almost ready to start plating the dish, add butter and milk, truffle paste, truffle oil and seasoning and heat gently. Do not boil. Whisk mixture with hand-held blender to create foam.

Smoked aubergine caviar:
2 large Dutch aubergines
2 tbsp chopped cilantro
1tsp each of dry roasted whole cumin, sweet smoked paprika
1tbsp each cottage cheese, mustard oil, finely chopped fresh chives, lemon juice
1 Dutch red chilli and 1 banana shallot, each finely chopped

Place aubergines in baking tray with very thin coating of oil and bake at 180C for 45 mins, remove and allow to cool. Once cooled, slice aubergines in half and scoop out flesh, discarding black outer skin. Chop the aubergines and add other ingredients. Mix well. Place in a container and put in fridge for at least 4 hours before serving chilled with risotto.

To serve:
100g fresh Devon white crab meat
35g grated Parmesan cheese
30g stick butter
2tsp chopped chives

Place heavy deep saucepan on stove over medium heat, add risotto, stock and butter. Bring to boil, cook for 2-3mins stirring constantly until rice is tender. Add crabmeat, Parmesan and chives and fold together. Season to taste and place risotto in centre of serving plate. Place two tandoored prawns per person on top of risotto. Using hand blender, agitate the sauce until a cappuccino-like foam appears, then spoon foam around risotto and drizzle basil oil around plate. Place 1 tbsp of the chilled smoked aubergine mix on side of plate.

Chez Mumtaj
136-142 London Road
St Albans  AL1 1PQ
01727 800033
www.chezmumtaj.com