CHRISTMAS OFFER Subscribe to Hertfordshire Life today CLICK HERE

Lunch at: The White Horse, Harpenden

PUBLISHED: 16:12 28 July 2011 | UPDATED: 19:47 20 February 2013

Lunch at: The White Horse, Harpenden

Lunch at: The White Horse, Harpenden

A new owner serves up a treat for food and drink editor Richard Cawthorne in Harpenden...

About the restaurant


Well known as a former Jean-Christophe Novelli outlet, the White Horse has recovered from its recent history and been taken over by Peach Pubs, equally well known in Berkhamsted and area for the way it has transformed The Old Mill.


Atmosphere and decor


Peach has opted for the bright and colourful approach, with lots of sunny colours and the walls of the restaurant festooned with entertaining past menus from the likes of the Savoy and Le Caprice.


Service


With a new product to boast about, the young and enthusiastic staff hand out a cheerful welcome with an efficiency that suggests careful training.


The menu


Anyone who knows the Berkhamsted operation will recognise the basic structure, to which experienced head chef Neal Sealey has added touches of his own, with a noticeable emphasis on freshness and seasonality. Watch for herb pancakes or chilli and lime-spiked fishcake as examples.


To start


The temptingly-titled superfood salad of feta, peas, broad beans and pearl barley with a soy and lime dressing (6.75) turned out to be a winner and a refreshing start to the meal. It is available with or without Cornish mackerel (I went without to leave room for what was to follow) and as a main course at 12.10. Our second starter, a Cornish crab cocktail with guacamole and highly-commended mini tacos (7), was also demolished with great enthusiasm - smooth, sweet and delicious were among the milder comments.


Main courses


Roast of the day is one of the innovations introduced by Peach at the White Horse and on Saturdays that means free-range pork with summer vegetables (11.50). My partner found nothing to complain about, especially since a decent helping of crackling was included. Inspired by the superfood starter, I opted for pan-fried Welsh sea bass with fennel, apple and potato coleslaw and summer-leaf salad (15), which was exactly as good as it sounds.


Desserts


A tasty and traditional lemon posset with lime syrup and ginger biscuit heads a tempting list of summer puds, all at 5.50. It was a good choice and so was the trio of champagne and elderflower sorbets and salted caramel ice cream, which came with chocolate and multi-coloured sprinkles and strawberry, caramel and chocolate sauces.


The experience


Maybe it was the sunny weather on the day we were there or the newness of the place or the obvious enjoyment of the other customers, but our visit to the White Horse turned into a fun and enjoyable occasion, a shining example of what can be achieved with good unfussy food and service in the right atmosphere.



BOOK A TABLE


The White Horse
Hatching Green
Harpenden AL5 2JP
01582 469290
www.thewhitehorse-harpenden.co.uk


The cost of this lunch was 64.60 including two large glasses of wine, plus a service charge. House wines part of an adventurous list are from 14.75.



3 of a kind


The Old Mill
Peach Pubs other Hertfordshire gastro-pub has proved a big hit with locals.
London Road
Berkhamsted HP4 2NB
01442 879590
www.theoldmillberkhamsted.co.uk


The Bricklayers Arms
Multi-award winning village venue
tops the polls with Life readers.
Hogpits Lane
Flaunden HP3 0PH
01442 833322
www.bricklayersarms.com


The Alford Arms
Picturesque pub-plus-food on the
edge of the Ashridge Estate.
Frithsden
HP1 3DD
01442 864480
www.alfordarmsfrithsden.co.uk

0 comments

More from Food & Drink

One of St Albans’ newest restaurant exudes an exciting confidence

Read more
December 2018
Friday, December 7, 2018

Take the whole family to one of these lovely Hertfordshire pubs, including your four-legged friend

Read more
Thursday, December 6, 2018

Come and celebrate with The Three Tuns this festive season!

Read more
Monday, December 3, 2018

Join us for Christmas at the Bushel & Strike.

Read more
Monday, December 3, 2018

The Crosse family at Ickleford’s Holme Farm has been rearing turkeys since 1964. With the rise of meat-free diets, how is the traditional Christmas bird faring?

Read more
December 2018
Monday, November 26, 2018

The Black Horse, Brent Pelham shares its hearty steak and ale pie recipe that’s perfect for winter

Read more
November 2018
Monday, November 26, 2018

Open fires, hearty food, local ales and a welcoming atmosphere. These are the things that make for the cosiest times. Find out where you can find all these things and more this winter with our Hertfordshire pubs guide

Read more
Friday, November 23, 2018

Located in the picturesque village of Ashwell, between Royston and Baldock in the county of Hertfordshire. The Three Tuns is a quintessential English inn.

Read more
Wednesday, November 21, 2018

As winter closes in, find a spot in one of these Hertfordshire restaurants for a Christmas feast or winter party

Read more
Tuesday, November 20, 2018

If you don’t fancy slaving over a hot fire this year, head to one of these restaurants for a festive feast on Christmas Day

Read more

Newsletter Sign Up

Sign up to the following newsletters:

Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter

Our Privacy Policy


Topics of Interest

Food and Drink Directory

Local Business Directory

Search For a Car In Your Area

Property Search