Restaurant Review: St Villa
PUBLISHED: 17:45 13 January 2020 | UPDATED: 14:07 15 January 2020
Brian Arnopp Images
There are ‘igloos’ outside, and inside is a two-level restaurant and bar with monochrome design. It’s dining with a difference in St Albans
Eating out in an igloo is probably not something you do every day but you can in St Albans. The St Villa restaurant which took over the site of the former Kamillo's last year has five 'dining domes' on its patio. The fifth is a newcomer, brought in because of demand. Each seats up to eight people and they have proved the ideal USP to help a newish business to stand out in a crowded market place. When they arrived in time for the warm weather they quickly became known as pods; for the winter they have been rechristened igloos (truth in advertising dictates we have to admit they are not made of ice but strong transparent plastic reminiscent of the biomes at Cornwall's Eden Project, except smaller). They are fully heated and are equipped with blankets. It's a different and enjoyable way to have your meal. St Villa does not charge any extra to use one but you need to be quick as they are regularly fully booked.
Even without them, St Villa commands attention for its winter à la carte menu, the work of newly arrived head chef Wojchiech (pronounced Voytek) Krzywy. It contains some interesting touches such as black sesame, ginger and honey lamb ribs with harissa among the starters and signature monkfish wrapped in pancetta and served with asparagus on the mains list. Desserts include avocado and mango cheesecake served with a strawberry coulis. Yes, avocado.
The restaurant claims the food is becoming a big talking point thanks to Wojchiech putting a twist on winter classics to create 'a menu that tastes as beautiful as it looks', which even given the usual promotional hyperbole seems fair comment based on our experience.
For customers not quick enough to snare one of the igloos, the outdoor operation is backed by a 95-cover two-level indoor restaurant and cocktail bar, all light and airy with an open-view kitchen and noticeably well trained and uniformed staff. I've now tried both outdoor and indoor options. Igloo-style is relaxing and away-from-it-all comfortable; inside can be noisy at busy times such as the Saturday night we were there, but not enough to spoil your meal.
The Saturday meal chosen for this review proved a fair test of the new menu with enough variations on the familiar to show the versatility of the kitchen and willingness to experiment with ingredients. A starter of fresh burrata (£7.70), a delicate cheese from Puglia made from mozzarella and cream, was served with grilled figs for a sweet introduction, while sautéed porcini and shiitake mushrooms (£6.95) proved highly satisfying served on a warm garlic and parsley crostini and sprinkled with parmesan.
For mains, what was described as 'chef's famous' duck ragu (£15.50) was a generous portion of slow cooked duck with ribbons of flat pasta noodles served in a rich ragu sauce, ideal for a chilly evening. A more straightforward aubergine and parmigiana tortellini (£13.95), served with a white wine and shallot sauce and garnished with chervil was equally highly praised by my plus-one.
A shared dessert of gooseberry and pear crème brûlée (£6.25) was as refreshing as its sounds to round off a relaxed evening.
Other St Villa features we like include BYOB or a 50 per cent discount on the restaurant wine list on Tuesdays. Customers can bring a bottle of their favourite wine and the team will serve it, or select one of the restaurant wines at half price when each ordering a main course from the à la carte menu. On Wednesday evenings it's 2 for 1 cocktails time.
Set menus are offered Mondays to Fridays from 12-3pm and 5.30-6.30pm with one course for £9.95 and two for £12.95 plus a dessert for £2.99. Up to 10 people per party can order off the set menu. The restaurant also has what it calls the Classic Sunday Roast with locally sourced beef, pork or chicken served with roasted vegetables and crispy potatoes and available from midday for £16.90.
The cost of this meal for two was £75.48 including two glasses of wine and service. This is an independent review by our food and drink editor. The restaurant was not told it was being reviewed.
St Villa Bar and Restaurant,
2 Marlborough Road
St Albans AL1 3XQ
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