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Dinner At Bluebella Roo’s, Berkhamsted

PUBLISHED: 14:06 24 July 2013 | UPDATED: 14:06 24 July 2013

Dishes are beautifully presented

Dishes are beautifully presented

Archant

The Daily Telegraph naming it a restaurant of the week, a website menu that deliberately tells only part of the story and a memorable name were good reasons to check out Bluebella Roo’s in Berkhamsted. Food and drink editor Richard Cawthorne says the instinct paid off

Atmosphere and decor

BR’s advertises ‘fine dining without the fuss’ and offers a tiny space (16 covers) and a spotless appearance. Walls are in unfussy plain colours, floor and tables plain. An open door to the kitchen allows glimpses of chef at work.

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Service

With a small clientele to deal with, many apparently repeat customers, the lone waiter looks after everyone competently. A note on the menu advises food is prepared fresh to order, so a slight wait between courses passes without problem.

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The menu

Primed by the website, we find a small but rounded choice of three starters, four mains, two desserts and cheese, peppered with treats such as truffle oil, cherry gel, a jus of asparagus and port, garlic butter and caramel puree.

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To start

Warm asparagus with crispy poached egg, truffle oil, pea shoots and parmesan (£8.50), not always easy, is a spot-on combination, while the scallop enthusiast across the table likes BR’s Oriental take, featuring miso glaze, Asian salad with copperwell dressing and black sesame cracker (£9).

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Main courses

My fellow critic chooses roasted loin of spring lamb with braised shoulder parcel, spring vegetables and rosemary jus (£21.50). Big smiles. I have lightly-cured cod fillet with pea puree, samphire, tartare dressing and wild garlic potato croquette (£16.50), well-chosen accompaniments to perk up what could be bland.

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Desserts

Chocolate and walnut brownies with chocolate soil or toffee creme brulee with flapjack crumble, both £8, are sorely tempting but we have waistlines to consider and pass. Future customers do not necessarily have to follow our example.

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The experience

It’s difficult to improve on Bluebella Roo’s own description. The dining is fine and there is definitely no fuss. BR’s is also on the pricey side but for a special treat, it’s hard to fault.

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The cost of this dinner for two was £74.50 including a 500cl carafe of wine, plus service.

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This is an independent review featuring a restaurant selected and experienced by our food and drink editor. The restaurant was not told it was being reviewed.

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BOOK A TABLE

Bluebella Roo’s

3 Prince Edward Street

Berkhamsted HP4 3EZ

01442 879201

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